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Jesús Camacho leads this living laboratory to research the potential of historical crops and, over time, translate their properties to the dishes of the MICHELIN-starred restaurant
In collaboration with the Canary Islands Seed Network, the MICHELIN-starred restaurant at GF Victoria investigates the gastronomic potential of historical crops such as the Guayonje onion, the borralla potato, or the yellow sweet potato
The Donaire restaurant, awarded a MICHELIN star at the GF Victoria hotel, has launched a new sustainable production and R&D test field at Finca Los Álamos, located in the Tenerife municipality of Tacoronte. This initiative represents a step forward in its commitment to the region, opening its own space that combines the supply of local fruits and vegetables with gastronomic research in the archipelago.
This living laboratory was created with the dual purpose of supplying the establishment with fresh products of the highest organoleptic quality and serving as an experimentation center for the team. Through this field, the restaurant seeks to investigate its own cuisine and creative proposal, exploring historical crops and varieties whose properties have not been sufficiently exploited, so that this research work is reflected in its dishes.
Leading this project is chef Jesús Camacho, who highlights that this test field allows them to know precisely “where the product comes from” and, in this way, manage to “have tailored products.” To materialize these ideas in the kitchen, Camacho works hand-in-hand with Víctor Escobar, an agricultural engineer and Sustainability manager at GF Hoteles. As Escobar explains, the goal in this research space is to seek “the option closest to Jesús’ needs to obtain our own product under our control.”
From history to the plate
One of the pillars of the initiative is the strategic alliance with the Canary Islands Seed Network. Through this collaboration, the team identifies, rescues, and studies the culinary potential of local cultivars that have been disappearing over time. Currently, the land already has productions of high cultural value such as the Guayonje onion, linked to the tradition of Tacoronte; the borralla potato, preserved in its pure form in the hamlets of the Anaga Massif; and the egg yolk sweet potato, a sweet variety characteristic of the volcanic soils of Lanzarote.
A perfect reflection of this statement of intent is its innovative Guayonje onion cupcake. Through this proposal, the restaurant has managed to return to the origin of this seed to build something totally new, combining the product harvested on the farm with wakame, Korean mayonnaise, and a chantilly made with goat yogurt. It is the ultimate expression of how agricultural research is transformed into gastronomic avant-garde.
In addition to local rescue, the space also functions as a testing ground for seeds from other latitudes. The team experiments with the cultivation of exotic species to test their adaptability to the soil and climate of the islands, seeking new flavor profiles that enrich the restaurant's creative proposal.
A real model of circular economy
The project operates under a real model of circular economy, fully aligned with the sustainability strategy of GF Hoteles and connects directly with the DNA of Grupo Fedola, to which the hotel chain belongs, whose foundational origins are closely linked to agricultural activity. The organic waste generated in the kitchen of the GF Victoria hotel is transported to a composting plant in Guía de Isora and returns to Finca Los Álamos converted into organic fertilizer for the crops.
To nourish the land naturally, the test field uses the agroecological method of "parades en crestall". This technique optimizes soil use and reduces water consumption without applying pesticides or chemical products. In this way, the Donaire team seeks to ensure that innovation consists of looking at the past and caring for the environment, ensuring that each dish connects the diner directly with the agricultural heritage of the islands.
